Thursday, October 20, 2011

Aquae Sulis (a.k.a Bath)

S and I just enjoyed a lovely long weekend in Bath, South West England. We had been meaning to visit Bath for some time. Mainly because of E's obsession with Jane Austen. Persuasion is E's favorite Austen novel and it was written by her whilst she was living in Bath.

What we didn't realize was that Bath is full of history that we never knew nor expected. We both learnt an awful lot that weekend.

Possibly the most impressive sight we saw was Bath's namesake - the Roman Baths.  The Romans found the hot springs in 43AD and then used it as a spa resort and temple to the goddess, Sulis Minerva (who they thought warmed the hot springs) for 400 years.  When the Romans left, the hot springs were "lost".  How one loses a hot spring is beyond us.  They were refound by the Georgians who thought that the hot baths also had healing qualities.

We learnt an incredible amount about Roman history by visiting the structure that they built around the hot springs.  A large majority of the site and associated temples are below ground and historians believe it could sprawl for many more miles. The Romans were so advanced - beside each of the swimming bath were steam rooms, massage parlours and drains.

We took a great walking tour that showed us all of the other sites we wanted to see in Bath.  Extremely informative, the walk took us to the Royal Crescent, the Circus, the Pump Room and Bath Cathedral.  It also taught us about the iconic Bath sandstone (used to rebuild the city).

It was intriguing to learn that after years of neglect, Bath was effectively remodelled and rebuilt in the Georgian times so that the Royals (and high society that followed) could use Bath as a resort town.  It was a bustling city full of prosperity, society and wealth.  People would bring their daughters in order to find them a suitable and wealthy husband.  Characters like Beau Nash dictated social etiquette (some of which we still use today).  Three men were charged with rebuilding Bath (Beau Nash included) and E was particularly interested in the one responsible for architecture - his style was based around the notion that everyone should live in a palace.  The Royal Crescent and the Circus were E's favourites (and indeed very palatial in style).  

We treated ourselves to a posh lunch in the Pump Room and also drank some of the "healing" hot spring water.  In the Georgian times, the Pump Room was used by society who travelled to Bath especially to drink the healing water.

Since we were so close to Stonehenge we decided to also visit the 5000 year old rock formation. Who knows who built it and for what purpose.  All we know is that you can definitely feel the importance of the rock structure as you walk around it.  Usually when you travel and site see you get the answers but this site left us with a lot of questions about what this site was used for and by whom.  We're sure that whoever they were, they were more advanced than we think...it is no coincidence that the rocks aligned with the sun's positioning at different times of the year, month or day.

We spent Sunday afternoon relaxing in the Thermae Spa (the modern day version of the baths) which has a rooftop heated pool with an impressive view. Our favorite part was the scented steam rooms. Especially the one that was mint and eucalyptus scented.

We stayed in a lovely little Manor Cottage just outside of the centre of town and enjoyed some very lovely meals (including a Jamie Oliver restaurant).  It was a deeply relaxing holiday - walking, seeing, eating and spa-ing.  We left Bath feeling revitalised and recharged...just how the Romans and Georgians planned it!!

E&S
xoxox



 The Royal Crescent
 The Circus
 The River Avon
 One of only three bridges in the world that doubles as a shopping street (the others are in Italy)
 Inside Bath Cathedral





 Cute little Tea Shops everywhere

 S the French man
 Stonehenge





Friday, September 30, 2011

A new season, a new love


Autumn in London is officially my favourite time of year. I have never experienced a real Autumn like this. The leaves are turning golden and falling like giant snowflakes.  The ground is covered everywhere in old leaves.   There is a long way to go and I cant wait for everything to be yellow and orange.  The air is crisp and I'm looking forward to rugging up (despite the fact that we are having a beautiful "Indian Summer" in September).

I cant help but think how symbolic Autumn is....out with the old and (soon) in with the new.  As the year draws to a close (only 3 months to go), the old leaves make way for the new fresh leaves.  A new year is around the corner and there is anticipation for those new leaves that will sprout green after the depths of winter.

I love how seasonal Europe is.  Every season brings something unique and totally different.  How can you ever get bored in a place that experiences four true seasons!!!

E xoxo

Sailing the Adriatic - The Finale

So that you aren't overwhelmed by words, we thought it would be a good idea to do this in three parts.  Here is the third and final instalment:

Korcula to Vela Luka

Our day of sailing between Korcula and Vela Luka was probably one of the most memorable.  We stopped in a private cove for hours and floated in some of the clearest blue water we saw on the whole trip.  The water temperature was amazing and we grabbed those daybeds and floated aimlessly.  It was heaven.

When we arrived in Vela Luka we headed straight for Havana Bar - a bar right on the water's edge with relaxing daybeds and delicious Pina Coladas.  We sat in the most perfect temperature looking at the gorgeous clear water and the little town that sprawled its way up a hill with white bricks and red roofs.

Vela Luka was on the same island as Korcula but at an opposite end and was a very local area.  We were some of the only tourists there!

For dinner we went to a local restaurant where E had a whole plate of fresh grilled calamari and S had traditional Croatian pizza.  We then had a Pirate Party and danced the night away at the towns only club.

It was a very memorable day.

Vela Luka to Hvar

Hvar was by far one of the best places we visited in Croatia.  It is a very impressive and attractive port town.  It is also party central.  Beyonce had been there the week before us and Prince Harry regularly parties at the club we visited that night.  This is where wealthy celebrities holiday (judging by the yachts parked in the port) and it reminded me of a typical cosmopolitan Mediterranean port town.

Hvar is home to farms of lavender so E couldn't help herself and bought some of it dried in a little pouch.  We decided to hike to a fortress at the top of the hill with a very impressive view.  It didn't disappoint but the walk up was exhausting in the heat.  Lucky there were those typical little Croatian lane ways made of marble to cool us down at the bottom of the hill.

That afternoon we went to the famous Hula Hula Bar.  This is by far one of the best beach side bars we have ever visited.  It had daybeds on the rocks and a gorgeous deck with the most perfect view of the sunset.  One thing we loved most about Croatia was its radiant sunsets over the water...something we had never experienced at home.

We all got very intoxicated on frozen daiquiris that afternoon but had the best time doing it.  In fact, I recall a certain Mr Hyde taking his kit off and diving stark naked into the ocean as the sun set!!!

That night, we went to two clubs and had a relatively calm night (the hangovers from the afternoon of drinking hit us early).

This was one of the busiest places we visited and our boat was the eighth boat docked at the port.  This meant that we had to walk through 7 other boats in complete darkness before we found ours!  We had to do this for the first time drunk as skunks after being at the Hula Hula Bar.

Hvar to Split

Our last day was fairly low key and we shared a nice traditional Croatian dinner together.  There were some pretty impressive grilled fish going on.

S and I thought it would be nice to have a romantic night in a classy hotel so we stayed on for one more day in the Split Raddison Blu.  We had such a relaxing day sitting and reading by the pool.  We also had the most amazing dinner at one of the hotel restaurants, high on the hill, watching the sun set on our holiday for a final time. 

What an amazing holiday.  We will never forget the time the Sexy Six spent together in Croatia.  Full of laughter, reminiscing and good old fashioned fun.

E&S
xoxo

 The clearest water we have ever seen!
 In heaven right now!
 The private cove near Vela Luka with some amazing properties.
 Sailing in to Vela Luka.
 Havana Bar - Vela Luka.
 Lovers <3
 Vela Luka Town
 Arriving in Hvar after the water taxi ride from our boat.
 Hvar Town

 The main square in Hvar
At the top of the fortress in Hvar 



 Hula Hula Bar, Hvar - Ohhhh yeah!

 Who ordered the look-a-like Cuban Drug Lord
 Sunsets in Hvar
The Radisson Blu - Split

Sailing the Adriatic - Part Two

Are you ready for Part 2 of Croatia...well here goes:

Mljet Island to Dubrovnik

This was E's favourite day of sailing by far. The scenery was superb and the air was so fresh.  Coming in to Dubrovnik was breath taking.  Historically, Dubrovnik was a very powerful port town and arriving by boat was definitely the best way to experience its gravity. 

Dubrovnik is surrounded by a massive wall which was intended to protect the town (it's rival was the great Venetian empire).  Apparently its positioning made it quite vulnerable to attacks.

S and I were a little under the weather so instead of walking the wall in 30 something degree heat, we opted for the Buza Bar.  Buza Bar was located on the cliffs of Dubrovnik, just under the town walls and the view was incredible.  The cliffs had landings off which people were jumping off.  One of them was apparently 27 meters high (E had to hold her breath a few times and was urging S not to participate).

After relaxing in the sun we decided to have a walk around the Old Town (which is classified as a UNESCO world heritage site).  The architecture was stunning and is mainly renaissance in style.  The town has a definite Italian influence with shiny marble roads and alley ways.  It was by far one of the most attractive towns on the coast.   S drank out of the Great Fountain of Onofrio which according to legend brings luck to anyone who drinks from it (it has brought fresh water to the town since 1444).

Before dinner, we all jumped in a little boat and had a sunset cruise around Dubrovnik.  We are certain that the little boat was overcrowded and about to tip but the sunset was amazing.  We had Pizza yet again then went to a bar which served cocktails in a sand bucket!!

Dubrovnik to Korcula

After our obligatory swim stop, we arrived at Korcula Town.  A very gorgeous settlement that juts out from a mountain and which has (surprise surprise) medieval walls surrounding it.  The town operated on a tight grid system with little alleyways and its claim to fame is that Marco Polo (the famous explorer) was born in this town. 

We enjoyed an afternoon of aimlessly wandering the streets and eating ice cream, followed by sitting on the town walls chatting in the sun.

For dinner and drinks we went to an open air bar (with gorgeous fairy lights) and an amazing view of the sunset.  The atmosphere was lovely and the live music was great.  However, there was a lot to be desired for the service.  How can we ever forget the time when Erin waited 3.5 hours for a bowl of spaghetti hehe.

Up next, the finale.  Lots of photos below.  E couldnt help herself.

E&S
xoxo


Stradun - The artery of Dubrovnik (in other words the main street)

The view from Buza Bar.


The Walls of Dubrovnik above Buza Bar.



The narrow alleys of Dubrovnik.

Sunset Cruise

The Sexy Six!

The Walls of Dubrovnik

Sailing in to Korcula

Swimming in a cove near Korcula

Korcula Markets



Our Boat - Ciresco



Erin and Liz on the walls at Korcula

The open air bar at Korcula